A Beginner’s Guide to Replacing a Failed Golf Cart Controller

The cart clicks and sits there, or it throws a code and will not move, and someone has told you the controller is gone. Maybe it is. Here is the 30-second answer to golf cart controller replacement: run the five tests below first, because most carts that will not go have a cheaper fault; if the controller fails them, read its label and find that label in your cart’s table. If your cart already runs Navitas you buy the same controller by part number. If a stock controller has died you buy the kit that replaces it. Every row says why it fits and whether you need anything else.

What This Guide Helps You Do

A dead controller is the most expensive guess on a golf cart, and it is often the wrong guess. This guide does two jobs, in this order. First it helps you prove the controller really has failed, with the same tests the manufacturers and our repair guides use. Then it shows you the exact replacement for your cart: the same Navitas controller by part number if your cart already runs Navitas, or the right kit if your stock Curtis, Moric, Danaher, NEOs or Sevcon controller has died.

You need three facts before you start:

1. The fault code or the symptom. Most controllers flash a code on an LED, beep, or show it in an app. Write down the pattern before you unplug anything, because a key cycle can clear it.
2. The label on the controller. Lift the seat and read the part number on the controller itself. On a Navitas unit it is printed on the front in the format 10-000XXX-XX. On a stock unit it reads Curtis 1206HB, Curtis 1510, Moric, Danaher, Toyota NEOs, Sevcon Millipak and so on.
3. The pack voltage. Count the batteries and multiply by the voltage on each one, or read it off the lithium pack. Six 8V batteries make 48V.

Run the checks in the next two sections first. When they point at the controller, jump to your cart:

• E-Z-GO TXT, PDS and DCS
• E-Z-GO ITS, series and utility
• E-Z-GO RXV, S4 and L6
• Club Car DS and Precedent
• Carryall, Villager, Regen II and Star EV
• Yamaha G29, Drive2 and older
• ICON and Advanced EV
• Columbia, Kandi, Denago, Royal EV, Atlas EV
• Navitas TSX and other numbers

Every table in the cart sections reads the same way. Your cart is what you found under the seat, with the controller label in bold. Your goal says what the replacement does. Buy this is the part, Why this one gives the fitment reason, and What else you need flags any extra part. Where a cart has more than one sensible route, each route gets its own row.

Is It Really the Controller? Symptoms That Do and Do Not Point to It

Controllers do fail, usually from heat, water or a voltage spike from a worn solenoid. But most carts that “won’t go” have a cheaper problem upstream of the controller. Our controller lifespan guide puts it plainly: the warning signs of a failing controller overlap with solenoid and wiring faults, so the controller is the last thing you condemn, not the first.

Not sure which row is yours? The golf cart troubleshooter walks the same logic by symptom and tells you which test to run first.

Confirm the Controller Is Dead: Five Tests Before You Buy

Work through these in order. Each one is quick with a digital multimeter, and each one either clears the controller or points straight at it. Turn the key off, set the run/tow switch to tow and keep rings and watches off whenever you touch a terminal.

1. Charge the pack, then measure it at rest and under load. A full 48V lead-acid pack should read well above 48V at rest and should not collapse when the cart pulls. Navitas lists low battery voltage (flash code 3-1) as its own fault and tells installers to load test the batteries after charging. One weak battery drags the whole pack down and makes a good controller look dead. Use the battery voltage chart for your pack.
2. Test the solenoid. With the cart in neutral, press the pedal and listen for the click. If it clicks, the voltage across the two large terminals should drop to zero. If it does not click, measure the two small terminals: battery voltage there with the pedal down means the solenoid is bad; no voltage there means the problem is in the wiring before it. That is the procedure in the Navitas troubleshooting guide for code 2-2, and our four terminal solenoid test walks it step by step.
3. Check the inputs the controller is waiting for. Key switch, forward/reverse switch, pedal micro switch and the throttle sensor all have to report correctly before any controller will drive. On a Navitas controller the app’s diagnostics page shows each one live; a standard throttle reads about 0.5V off and about 4V at full pedal. Our key switch, micro switch and pedal sensor tests cover the stock carts.
4. Read the fault code, and test the motor. Look the code up for your cart: E-Z-GO RXV, Club Car Onward, Yamaha Drive2, ICON, Star EV or Advanced EV. On a Navitas TAC2, two codes can point at the controller itself. For 2-3 (not pre-charging), Navitas says to remove every cable except B minus, tape the ends apart, leave the controller harness plugged in and try again: if 2-3 comes back, replace the controller; if not, the fault is in the wiring. For 4-7 (power stage), unplug the three motor phase cables U, V and W: if the error stays, the fault is not the motor wiring. Navitas also says not to replace a controller until the motor has been checked for short circuits, so run our motor test too. A shorted motor will kill a new controller.
5. Do the controller diode test. With every cable removed from the controller, set the meter to diode mode. On a Navitas TAC2, the manufacturer’s chart gives about 0.42V between B+ and U and between U and B minus, and about 0.48V for the V and W terminals. A reading near zero (a short) or no reading where a number should be means a failed power stage. Stock Curtis, Moric, NEOs and Sevcon controllers have their own figures in the cart maker’s service manual; a dead short across the power terminals means the same thing on any of them.

If your cart passed tests 1 to 3 and failed test 4 or 5, the controller is the part to replace. If it failed an earlier test, fix that first: a new controller behind a bad solenoid or a sagging pack will not drive either, and a solenoid that arcs on every engagement sends spikes into whatever controller you fit. If the old unit is a Navitas, check its date too: Navitas controllers carry a 24 month warranty.

Quick Picks: Replacement Controllers for the Most Common Carts

Tests done and the controller is dead? Here are the replacements for the carts we see most often. The cart sections further down give the reasoning and every other option.

Want the answer for your exact cart? The Replacement Controller Finder takes your serial number, your model or the label on the old controller and lists what fits: the same part again where we stock it, the kits that keep your motor and the AC conversions.

Golf Cart Controller Replacement: Three Ways to Replace a Dead Controller

Which way you go depends on what is fitted now, not on the cart’s name. There are three situations, and each one has its own kind of part.

A Navitas number is specific. The same cart can carry several different Navitas controllers depending on the kit that was fitted, 440A or 600A, and whether it is a CAN version. Two numbers that differ only in the last two digits are different controllers. So in every section below, the Navitas rows are keyed to the number on the label, and the stock rows are keyed to the stock label.

If the dead controller is stock and you are weighing a straight replacement against more speed, our controller upgrade guide explains amps, solenoids and cables, and the conversion kit guide walks every kit cart by cart.

Parts note: A typical Case 2 replacement: the TSX 3.0 kit for a Yamaha G29 Drive replaces a dead 26 pin Moric and keeps the DC motor. See the TSX 3.0 G29 kit

E-Z-GO TXT, Medalist, PDS and DCS

If your TXT is stock, the label on the dead controller tells you which of four carts you have. A 48V TXT has a Curtis 1206HB. Older 36V carts are PDS (Curtis 1206MX) or DCS (Curtis 1206SX with a 9 pin plug). A TXT ELiTE with the factory Samsung lithium pack has a Curtis 1206HBC. Each has its own replacement. Series motor TXTs and Medalists are in the ITS and series section.

If your TXT already runs Navitas, read the 10-000XXX-XX number on the front label and find it in the table. The TAC2 TXT kit we sell carries the 10-000888-36 (440A) or 10-000890-27 (600A) controller. We do not list the older non-CAN 600A TXT controller, 10-000890-03.

For the full symptom walk on a TXT, read TXT no power but the solenoid clicks and TXT won’t go forward. If you are replacing a dead 1206HB anyway, the TXT hill and speed upgrade guide shows what the 600A and AC options change.

Already on an Alltrax AC1

E-Z-GO ITS Utility, Series Carts, MPT and Workhorse

If your E-Z-GO has a series motor, the throttle decides the replacement: carts with the ITS throttle sensor and carts with a non-ITS throttle each have their own TSX kit, at 36V or 48V. On a 48V work cart like the MPT or Workhorse with a dead Curtis 1268 ITS or 1264, you can replace it with a TSX kit and keep the motor, or convert to AC.

If it already runs Navitas, match the label. The TAC2 440A ITS kit we sell carries controller 10-000888-37.

There is no AC kit for series motor E-Z-GOs in our range, so for those carts the TSX kit is the replacement. The series vs sepex guide shows how to tell the motor types apart, and Medalist no power covers the older series carts.

E-Z-GO RXV, S4 and L6

If your RXV, S4 or L6 is stock, it is already AC, so the replacement for a dead controller is a Navitas TAC2 AC controller kit. The motor stays. Before you condemn an RXV controller, read its flash code: on an RXV the classic no-roll cause is the motor brake, not the controller, and our RXV fault code guide covers it. The RXV comes in three electrical versions and each takes a different kit.

If it already runs Navitas, match the label. Our RXV Curtis kit carries 10-000878-14 (440A) or 10-000880-19 (600A), the RXV Danaher kit 10-000878-15 (440A), the RXV ELiTE kit 10-000878-17 or 10-000880-25, and the S4 and L6 kit 10-000880-21 at 600A. We do not list the Danaher kit’s 600A controller (10-000880-20) or the S4 and L6 kit’s 440A controller (10-000878-16) on their own.

An S4 or L6 ELiTE with the factory Samsung lithium pack has no replacement in our range, so there is nothing to buy for a dead controller on those carts. The RXV speed and hill guide shows how to tell the three RXV versions apart from the label.

Already on an Alltrax AC1

Club Car DS and Precedent (IQ and Excel)

If your DS or Precedent is stock with a DC motor, a dead Curtis 1510 or 1515 (the IQ and Excel systems) is replaced by the TSX 3.0 IQ and Excel kit, which keeps the motor. If you would rather go AC while it is apart, the TAC2 kit fits both frames, in 4kW only on a DS because the 5kW motor is too long for the DS frame. The TAC3 7.5kW kit is listed for Precedent frames only.

If your Precedent, Tempo or Onward has a factory AC motor, we do not sell a replacement controller or kit for it. The Onward fault code guide and Tempo won’t move cover the diagnosis.

If it already runs Navitas, match the label. Our TAC2 IQ kit carries 10-000888-26 (440A 4kW), 10-000890-32 (600A 4kW) or 10-000890-26 (600A 5kW). The older non-CAN Precedent controllers, 10-000888-02 and 10-000890-02 (the unit in the photo above), are not ones we list.

For the Club Car symptoms, see DS no power, Precedent no power, solenoid clicks and DS jerky acceleration. The DS and Precedent upgrade guides and our Navitas Club Car fitment guide go deeper on the options.

Already on an Alltrax AC1

Club Car Carryall, Villager, Regen II and Star EV

If your cart is stock with a Curtis 1268 or 1520, as on many Carryalls, Villagers, older DS carts and 48V Star EVs, a dead controller is replaced by the TSX 1268/1520 kit, which keeps the motor. A 36V Star EV Classic has its own TSX kit. For AC, Villager and Carryall carts have a 600A 5kW kit, and the 48V Star EV Classic has two. A Club Car with a dead Regen II (PowerDrive 2, silver GE controller) has no TSX kit in our range; its replacement is an AC kit, 4kW on a DS and 5kW on the longer frames.

If it already runs Navitas, match the label. The Star EV AC kit we sell carries 10-000890-43. We do not list the Villager and Carryall kit’s controller, 10-000890-42, on its own.

A Star EV that came from the factory with an AC drivetrain is not covered by these parts. For Star EV symptoms, read Star EV won’t move and the Star EV code list.

Yamaha G29 Drive, Drive2 and Older Yamahas

If your Yamaha is stock and electric, count the pins on the controller plug. 26 pins in two rows is a Moric controller on a G29 Drive or Drive2 DC. 23 pins is a G19 or G22. A Drive2 AC (YDRE2) has a Toyota NEOs controller and an AC motor already. The G14 and G16 have their own kit.

If it already runs Navitas, match the label. Our TAC2 G29 kit carries 10-000888-38 (440A) or 10-000890-29 (600A), and our Drive2 AC kit carries 10-000888-35 or 10-000890-35. The Navitas manual’s older non-CAN G29 kit uses 10-000888-09 at 440A, which we do not list; its 600A partner, 10-000890-09, is in the table.

For Yamaha symptoms, read G29 won’t go forward or reverse, G29 surging and hesitation and Drive2 beeping codes. The Yamaha Drive upgrade guide compares the TSX and AC routes.

Already on an Alltrax AC1

ICON and Advanced EV

If your ICON or Advanced EV is stock, it is already AC, and what matters is who made the controller. Our kits replace the Toyota NEOs M type controller (labels such as 48M350 or 48M450) at 48V. A dead NEOs L type, Red Curtis or LVTONG controller, common on 2022 and later carts, has no replacement in our range. Read the code first: our ICON code list and Advanced EV code list separate controller faults from the BMS and dash codes.

If it already runs Navitas, match the label. Our ICON kit carries 10-000888-39 (440A) or 10-000890-38 (600A).

More on these carts: ICON won’t move and Advanced EV won’t move.

Already on an Alltrax AC1

Columbia Par Car, Kandi, Denago, Royal EV and Atlas EV

If your Columbia Par Car is a 48V cart with a dead Sevcon Millipak (633T45319, 633T45303, 633T46101), you can replace it with a TSX kit and keep the motor, or convert to AC. 24V and 36V Columbias are not covered. A Kandi Kruiser or Denago EV with a dead factory controller takes the matching TAC2 kit. For a stock Royal EV or Atlas EV we sell no kit, only the bare Navitas controllers below for carts that already run Navitas.

Already on Navitas: TSX 3.0 and Other Numbers

If your cart runs a Navitas TSX 3.0, it is a DC cart with a Navitas harness already in place, so you only need the controller. Every TSX 3.0 kit we sell uses controller 10-000766 at 440A or 10-000685 at 600A; the label tells you which. Keep the harness and programmer you have. If it still has a TSX 1.0, the replacement is the 1.0 to 3.0 kit with its adapter harness. A few Navitas numbers are not tied to one cart in our listings; if your label matches one of them exactly, that listing is your controller.

Starting from a stock DC cart but want to buy the parts separately? The TSX 3.0 controller and the vehicle harness for your label are each sold on their own; the kit in your cart section is the same parts in one box and the simpler order.

If your Navitas number is not in any table on this page, we do not list that exact controller. A different number is a different controller, even on the same cart, so do not substitute the nearest one.

440A, 600A or 850A: Choosing the Rating

When you replace a Navitas controller, the rating is already decided: buy the number on the label. When a stock controller has died, you choose, and here is how we would.

A bigger controller works the motor and cables harder. If you step up from a stock rating, read the controller upgrade guide on cables and solenoids, and what size motor a golf cart needs.

Parts note: A typical Case 1 replacement: the TAC2 600A controller from our TXT AC kit, sold on its own by its part number. See the TAC2 600A 10-000890-27

What Else to Check and Order to Finish the Job

Whatever killed the old controller can kill the new one. These are the things to put right while the seat is up.

• A solenoid that can take the current. A worn solenoid arcs on every engagement and sends spikes into the controller. If yours failed test 2, replace it with one rated for your amps; our 400A solenoid guide explains when that matters.
• Clean, tight, big enough cables. Navitas lists undersized battery cables as a cause of a cart that goes sluggish after a while and recommends 4 AWG power cables. Check every lug for heat marks. The wire gauge calculator sizes them.
• A motor that tested good. If you skipped the motor test, do it now. A shorted motor will take out a new controller.
• The app, on a phone or tablet. Every Navitas replacement controller must be set up in the Navitas app before the cart will drive. Have the phone charged before you start.
• An On-The-Fly programmer if you want switches at the seat. The OTF programmer works with TSX 3.0 and TAC2 controllers. Bare controllers and the 440A AC kits do not include one.
• Spare harnesses and adapters. Navitas harnesses, phase wires and motor adapters are sold on their own in harnesses and programmers if one was damaged along with the controller.
• A healthy pack. If test 1 showed a weak battery, sort it before you fit the new controller. Lithium packs are in batteries and ship by freight.

Six Mistakes That Waste a Replacement Controller

1. Buying before testing. Most “dead controller” carts have a bad solenoid, a weak battery or a failed input switch. Run the five tests first.
2. Buying a bare Navitas controller for a stock cart. It needs the Navitas harness and, on AC carts, the motor a kit supplies. On a stock cart, buy the kit for the label.
3. Matching the cart instead of the number. One cart can carry several Navitas controllers: 440A or 600A, CAN or not, ELiTE or not. Buy the exact 10-000XXX-XX on the label.
4. Putting a TAC2 on a DC motor or a TSX on an AC motor. TAC controllers drive AC motors; TSX controllers drive DC motors. The listings say so in their “Does NOT fit” lists.
5. Skipping the app setup. A Navitas replacement controller will not drive until it has been programmed in the Navitas app.
6. Reusing what killed the old one. A loose lug, a burnt cable or a pitted solenoid will do the same to the new controller.

Still Not Sure? Three Quick Checks

Torn between two rows? One of these decides it:

1. Read the label again, in good light. Wipe it with a dry cloth and take a photo with the flash on, then zoom in. On a Navitas unit, read all ten digits including the last two; on a stock unit, the Curtis, Moric or NEOs model number. The label always wins over the year or the body.
2. Check the connector. Yamaha plugs differ by pin count, 23 or 26. E-Z-GO series carts differ by throttle, ITS or non-ITS. A Navitas TAC2 has a black module on its front that names the kit it came from.
3. Count the batteries. The pack voltage rules out every part built for another voltage, which usually leaves one row.

If the label is gone completely, run the serial through the E-Z-GO, Club Car or Yamaha lookup. The model and year point you to the right section, and the plug then picks the row. Or let the controller finder ask those questions for you: it works from the serial, the pack and the plug when the label cannot be read.

Frequently Asked Questions

Updated September 2026: every row was checked against our live product data and each Navitas row is keyed to the part number printed on the controller label.