Category

Controllers

Replacement controllers from Navitas, Alltrax and Curtis for E-Z-GO, Club Car, Yamaha and more, matched to your cart, type and amp rating. Best deals in the game, and we make sure it fits.

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Choosing a replacement controller

The controllers on this page are bare Navitas and Alltrax AC1 units, sold without a complete conversion system. They are like-for-like parts when the matching controller family is already on your cart and has failed. Lift the seat and read the number on the front label. For Navitas, match the 10-000XXX-XX number. For Alltrax AC1, match the full 88-AC1-72650 application and its connector. The number fixes the rating, the CAN version and the cart, so the harness, motor and programmer you already have stay in place.

If the dead controller is a stock Curtis, Moric, Danaher, Toyota NEOs or Sevcon unit, a bare controller is not the right buy. The replacement is the kit for that label in conversion kits, built to take the place of that stock controller on your cart.

AC or DC

  • AC controllers. Navitas TAC2 at 440A or 600A, TAC3 at 850A, and Alltrax AC1 at 650A for their documented AC applications. Each listing names the cart or the stock controller it was built around, and whether it is the CAN version.
  • DC controllers. The Navitas TSX 3.0 for DC carts: 440A or 600A at 36V to 48V, plus a 600A unit for 48V to 72V systems.

440A, 600A or 850A

When you replace a Navitas controller, the rating is already decided by the label. When you are choosing, 440A suits two riders on gentle ground, 600A is the pick for a rear seat, a lift, bigger tires or regular hills, and the TAC3 850A only makes sense when the pack, cables, tires and brakes are built for it. The controller amp calculator sizes it for your weight and terrain and shows its reasoning.

Before you order

Most carts that will not go have a cheaper fault than the controller: a tired pack, a worn solenoid or a bad input switch. The troubleshooter and the solenoid test rule those out in a few minutes. A worn solenoid or a loose lug that killed the old controller will take out the new one too.

For five quick tests and a cart-by-cart table of every controller here, read A Beginner's Guide to Replacing a Failed Golf Cart Controller. More help by cart:

Controllers FAQ

Which replacement controller do I need?

Read the part number on the front label of the controller that failed. If it is a Navitas number in the format 10-000XXX-XX, buy that exact number. If it is an Alltrax AC1 label, match the full AC1 application and connector. A stock Curtis, Moric, Danaher, Toyota NEOs or Sevcon label needs the complete kit for that application.

Does a replacement controller come with a harness?

No. Every listing here is the controller only. It reuses the matching Navitas or Alltrax AC1 system already on the cart. A stock cart needs the complete kit for its controller label.

What does "with CAN" mean on a Navitas controller?

Some Navitas controllers talk to the cart and its accessories over a CAN bus and some do not, and the two versions are not interchangeable. The label number tells you which one you have, so matching the number settles it.

Is my controller really dead?

Often it is not. A clicking solenoid with no drive, a flat pack under load and a bad key or pedal switch all look like a dead controller. Run the five tests in the controller replacement guide before you buy.

Can I fit a bigger controller than the one that failed?

On a Navitas cart the like-for-like number is the safe buy, because the rest of the install was set up for it. Going up in rating means more current through the pack, cables and solenoid, so size it with the controller amp calculator first.