Golf Cart Replacement Controller Finder
Controller dead? Match the replacement by cart model, serial number or the part number on the old controller. You get the same part again where we stock it, the upgrade that keeps your motor and the full AC conversion, with the reason for each.
Have a question about your cart?
Reach out for one to one help from our team. Tell us about your cart, your setup or the upgrade you are planning, and we will point you to the right part.
How to use the Replacement Controller Finder
The finder at the top of this page tells you which controller fits your golf cart. You answer a few questions about the cart, one at a time, and it shows the controllers and kits we stock for it. It is free and there is no sign-up.
You do not need to know the part number. Start with whichever of these you have:
| Your situation | Start here |
|---|---|
| You have the serial number of a Club Car, E-Z-GO or Yamaha | The Serial number tab |
| You know the make and model | The Pick make and model tab |
| You can read the label on the old controller | The I can read the label tab |
| The controller says Navitas or Alltrax | Pick the cart, then choose Already upgraded |
The four steps
- Find the cart. Use the tab that suits you from the table above.
- Say whether the controller is the factory one. A factory controller reads Curtis, Danaher, Moric, Sevcon or Toyota NEOs. If the case says Navitas or Alltrax, choose Already upgraded.
- Confirm the setup. If your cart was built more than one way, each option lists something you can check by eye. Pick the one that matches, or choose I cannot tell.
- Read the answer. Your parts appear under the tool, on up to three tabs. Each part says why it is listed for your cart and links to its product page.
Worked examples: six common situations
Find the one closest to yours and follow the same clicks.
1. The cart will not move and you have the serial number
Example: an E-Z-GO with a plate that reads C2412.
- Open the Serial number tab, choose E-Z-GO, type the code from the plate and press Find my cart.
- The finder reads it as a 2012 cart and asks whether it is a TXT or an RXV, because that code was used on both. Check the badge on the body. Say it is an RXV.
- Choose Factory controller, then the 48V pack.
- Pick the setup marked Matches your 2012.
What you see: the controller kits made for a 2012 and up RXV. An RXV is AC from the factory, so there is no motor conversion to choose.
2. You can read the label on the old controller
Example: a Club Car Precedent whose controller reads Curtis 1510.
- Open the I can read the label tab and type 1510.
- Pick Curtis 1510 or 1510A from the list.
- That controller was fitted to more than one Club Car, so the finder asks which cart it is on. Pick Precedent.
What you see: three tabs. Same part again holds the factory controller when we have it in stock. Upgrade, keep your motor holds the kits that plug into a cart built with the 1510. Upgrade controller and motor holds the AC conversion kits. Use the Model year and Chassis buttons above that list to narrow it to your cart.
3. The label is washed out
Example: an E-Z-GO TXT with a 36V pack and a label you cannot read.
- Open Pick make and model, choose E-Z-GO, then TXT or Medalist.
- Choose Factory controller. If you are not sure it is the factory one, choose Not sure.
- Pick the 36V pack. Six batteries with 3 caps each make 36V.
- You now see the ways a 36V TXT was built, each with something you can check by eye: whether the cart slows itself when you lift off the pedal, how many pins the controller plug has and which throttle it uses. Pick the one that matches.
What you see: the parts for that cart. If two options still look alike, choose I cannot tell and you get the parts for each one, with what sets them apart.
4. The cart already has a Navitas or Alltrax controller
Example: a Yamaha Drive that was converted to Navitas, and the Navitas unit has died.
- Pick the cart: Yamaha, then Drive (G29).
- Choose Already upgraded.
- Type the number printed on the unit, such as 10-000890-29, and pick it from the list.
What you see: that exact controller. The harness, the motor and the cables already on the cart stay. Read every digit, because two numbers that differ only in the last two digits are different controllers.
5. Your cart is not a Club Car, E-Z-GO or Yamaha
Example: an ICON.
- Open Pick make and model and choose ICON. The serial lookup reads the three big makes, so this tab is the way in for every other make.
- Choose Factory controller.
- Pick the controller that matches your label: Toyota NEOs M type, or another controller.
What you see: the kits for the NEOs M type. Where we do not stock a part for your controller, the finder says so plainly and tells you what to match at a dealer.
6. You want more pull on hills while you are replacing it
- Run the finder for your cart, as in the examples above.
- On the answer, open Upgrade, keep your motor for a stronger controller that works with the motor you have, or Upgrade controller and motor for an AC conversion.
- Not sure how many amps you need? The link under the parts opens the controller amp calculator, which sizes it for your speed, load and hills.
What you see: only the upgrades made for your cart, each with the reason it is listed.
Once you have your answer, the address in your browser points to it. Bookmark it, or send it to whoever is doing the work.
Same part, upgrade or conversion: which answer is for you
A dead controller does not have one answer. It has up to three, and they differ by how much of the cart you change. The finder puts every part under one of these three tabs, in this order, so you compare like with like.
1. Same part again
The factory controller, like for like. It sits where the old one sat, uses the plugs already on the cart and drives the same motor at the same speed. This is the true replacement. Where we stock the factory unit for your cart, it is the first thing the finder shows.
2. Upgrade and keep your motor
A new controller sold as a kit, with a harness made for the wiring of your cart. The motor stays. When a kit says it replaces a Curtis 1206HB, that means its harness fits a cart built with that controller. The controller inside is a different and stronger unit, which is why we call it an upgrade and not a replacement.
3. Upgrade the controller and the motor
A DC to AC conversion kit. The motor, the controller and the wiring between them all change. It is the biggest job and the biggest gain in torque and hill climbing. Carts that are AC from the factory, such as the E-Z-GO RXV, have nothing to convert.
| Same part again | Upgrade, keep your motor | Controller and motor | |
|---|---|---|---|
| What changes | The controller | The controller and its harness | The motor, the controller and the wiring between them |
| What stays | Everything else on the cart | The motor and the battery pack | The battery pack and the rest of the cart |
| How the cart drives | The same as before | More pull, from a stronger controller | The biggest gain in torque and hill climbing |
| Choose it when | You want the cart back as it was | You want more pull without changing the motor | The cart climbs, tows or carries four people most days |
Already upgraded?
If the cart already runs a Navitas or Alltrax controller, the answer is the same unit again, matched by the number printed on it. Choose Already upgraded in step 2 and type the number. The harness, motor and cables on the cart stay.
How to identify your golf cart controller
The controller is the finned metal box under the seat with the thick cables bolted to it. The label on it settles which part you need, so start there. If the label is gone, the cart itself gives enough clues.
Start with the label
Read the make and the model number, such as Curtis 1510 or Curtis 1206HB. This table shows which carts each label came on.
| The label reads | It came on |
|---|---|
| Alltrax AC1 (a number like 88-AC1-72650-TXT/IQ) | A cart that was upgraded after it left the factory. |
| Curtis 1204M-4201 | Any cart fitted with this exact controller. |
| Curtis 1205-101 | Any cart fitted with this exact controller. |
| Curtis 1206AC |
|
| Curtis 1206HB |
|
| Curtis 1206HBC |
|
| Curtis 1206MX |
|
| Curtis 1206SX |
|
| Curtis 1234SE |
|
| Curtis 1264 |
|
| Curtis 1266A-5201 | Any cart fitted with this exact controller. |
| Curtis 1268 (another number, or the rest is unreadable) |
|
| Curtis 1268-5403 | Any cart fitted with this exact controller. |
| Curtis 1268-5502 | Any cart fitted with this exact controller. |
| Curtis 1510 or 1510A |
|
| Curtis 1515 |
|
| Curtis 1520 |
|
| Danaher 83A21102A |
|
| GE, silver case (Regen II or PowerDrive 2) |
|
| Moric (Yamaha, 26 pin plug) |
|
| Navitas (a number like 10-000890-27) | A cart that was upgraded after it left the factory. |
| Sevcon Millipak |
|
| Toyota NEOs M type (48M350, 48M450) |
|
A label that is hard to read
Wipe it with a dry cloth, take a photo with the flash on and zoom in. On a factory controller you are looking for the model number, such as Curtis 1510. On a Navitas unit you need every digit of the 10-000XXX-XX number, because two numbers that differ only in the last two digits are different controllers.
When the label is gone: read the hardware
A label can wash off. The plug, the motor and the heavy terminals cannot. These checks need no label and no meter, only a look and a count. Switch the key off, and set the tow switch to Tow if the cart has one, before you move a cable aside to see better.
1. Count the pins on the controller plug
Unclip the small multi-pin plug from the controller and count the pin holes. On most carts this one number settles it.
| The plug has | On this cart | So the cart has |
|---|---|---|
| 9 pins | E-Z-GO TXT, 36V | DCS drive, built with a Curtis 1206SX |
| 10 pins, next to a 5 pin port that holds a small option plug | E-Z-GO TXT, 36V or 48V | PDS drive, built with a Curtis 1206MX |
| 16 pins, next to a 4 pin plug | Club Car DS, Precedent, or a Tempo or Onward with a DC motor | IQ or Excel system, built with a Curtis 1510 or 1515 |
| 24 pins | Club Car Carryall or Villager, 48V Star EV, E-Z-GO MPT or Workhorse | A Curtis 1268 |
| 23 pins | E-Z-GO RXV | The Danaher controller, 2008 to 2011 |
| 35 pins | E-Z-GO RXV | The Curtis 1206AC, 2012 and up |
| 23 pins in three rows | Yamaha | A G19 or G22 |
| 26 pins in two rows | Yamaha | A Drive (G29) or a Drive2 with a DC motor, built with the Moric controller |
The 16 pin plug is the same on a Club Car IQ cart and an Excel cart. If that is your plug and the label is gone, a photo of the controller is the quickest way to tell them apart, and we will do it for you.
2. Look at the cables on the motor
Follow the thick cables from the controller down to the motor. The number of cables, and the letters stamped beside the studs, tell you what kind of drive the cart has.
| On the motor you see | That is | What it means for the controller |
|---|---|---|
| Three thick cables of the same size, a sealed case and no brush band | An AC motor | The cart is AC from the factory, like an E-Z-GO RXV or a Yamaha Drive2 AC. It takes an AC controller kit and there is no motor conversion to do. |
| Four thick cables, on studs marked A1, A2, S1 and S2 | A series motor | It takes a series controller. A DC kit made for a regen cart will not drive it. |
| Two thick cables on A1 and A2, and two thinner wires on F1 and F2 | A separately excited motor, the regen kind | It takes a controller with field terminals. Club Car IQ and Excel, E-Z-GO PDS and DCS and the Yamaha Drive are built this way. |
3. Look at the heavy terminals on the controller
The controller tells the same story as the motor, so use it to double check. Read the letters next to the big bolted terminals.
- B+, B- and M-, with two smaller terminals marked F1 and F2: a regen controller for a separately excited motor.
- B+, B-, M- and A2, with no F1 or F2: a series controller.
- B+ and B-, with three more marked U, V and W: an AC controller.
4. Look at the case
- A silver GE unit on a 48V Club Car is the Regen II system, also called PowerDrive 2.
- Navitas or Alltrax on the case itself means the cart was upgraded after it left the factory. The name is part of the case, so it survives when the paper label does not. A Navitas AC unit also carries its number on a black module on the front.
5. Check the pack and the pedal
The pack. Lift the seat and count the batteries and the filler caps on one of them. Six batteries with 3 caps each make 36V. Six batteries with 4 caps each, or four batteries with 6 caps each, make 48V. A lithium pack has its voltage printed on the case label.
The pedal. Lift off the pedal on level ground. A cart that slows itself has a regen or an AC drive. A cart that coasts freely has a series motor and takes a series controller.
Still not sure? Send us a photo
Take four pictures: the controller with its plug, the motor end where the cables bolt on, the battery pack and the serial plate. Email them to support@golfcartlab.com and we will tell you which controller the cart has and which parts fit it.
Replacement controllers by cart
Each popular cart: the controller it was built with, what replaces it and one thing to check first. Want more speed or pull on hills instead? The AC Conversion Kit Finder covers the same carts from the upgrade side.
Club Car Precedent controller replacement
A 48V Precedent runs a Curtis 1510 or 1510A (IQ system) or a Curtis 1515 (Excel system). Same part again is the Curtis 1510AS-5350 for IQ or the Curtis 1515S-5350 for Excel. To keep your motor with a stronger controller, the Navitas TSX 3.0 kit and the Curtis 1268 500A kit fit both systems.
Tip: a Precedent with a factory AC motor (sealed, three equal cables, no brush band) is a different setup, and the finder tells you what to match. Open the finder for a Club Car Precedent, or read why a Precedent will not go forward or reverse.
Club Car DS controller replacement
A 48V DS with the IQ system runs a Curtis 1510: the Navitas TSX 3.0 kit or the Curtis 1268 500A kit takes its place and keeps the motor. A DS with a Curtis 1268 or 1520 takes the Curtis 1268-5403 again if the label reads exactly that, or the Navitas TSX 3.0 kit for the 1268 and 1520. A Regen II DS (silver GE controller) takes the Navitas TAC2 600A 4kW conversion.
Tip: an IQ cart slows itself when you lift off the pedal. One that coasts freely has a series motor, which has its own parts in the finder. Open the finder for a Club Car DS, or read Club Car DS no power.
Club Car Tempo and Onward controller replacement
A Tempo or Onward with a DC motor runs a Curtis 1510 or 1515 on a 48V pack. The Navitas TSX 3.0 kit for IQ and Excel takes the place of the factory unit and keeps your motor.
Tip: a DC motor has a round brush band and two or three thick cables. Open the finder for a Club Car Tempo or Onward, or read Club Car Tempo will not move.
E-Z-GO TXT controller replacement
A TXT 48V with a Curtis 1206HB takes the Navitas TSX 3.0 kit for the TXT 48V. A PDS cart (Curtis 1206MX) takes the 1206MX-4301 again on 36V, or the TSX 3.0 kit for PDS or the Curtis 1268 500A kit. A DCS cart (Curtis 1206SX, 9 pin plug) takes the TSX 3.0 kit for DCS. A TXT ELiTE (Curtis 1206HBC) takes the Navitas TAC2 600A 5kW conversion.
Tip: a PDS cart slows itself when you lift off the pedal. Open the finder for an E-Z-GO TXT, or read TXT no power but the solenoid clicks.
E-Z-GO RXV controller replacement
The RXV is AC from the factory, so a new controller kit keeps your motor. A 2008 to 2011 RXV has a Danaher controller with a 23 pin plug: the Navitas TAC2 kit for that RXV or the Alltrax AC1 650A 23 pin kit replaces it. From 2012 it is a Curtis 1206AC with a 35 pin plug: the TAC2 kit for 2012 and up or the Alltrax AC1 650A 35 pin kit.
Tip: an RXV ELiTE on the factory lithium pack has its own TAC2 kit. Open the finder for an E-Z-GO RXV, or read the RXV fault codes.
Yamaha Drive (G29) controller replacement
The Drive (G29) runs 48V with a Moric controller on a 26 pin plug. The Navitas TSX 3.0 kit for the G29 or the Curtis 1268 500A kit for the G29 takes the place of the Moric, and both keep your motor.
Tip: the plug on the controller has 26 pins in two rows. Open the finder for a Yamaha Drive (G29), or read G29 will not go forward or reverse.
Yamaha Drive2 controller replacement
The Drive2 was built with a DC motor or an AC motor. A DC Drive2 has the same Moric controller and 26 pin plug as the G29 and takes the Navitas TSX 3.0 kit for the G29. A Drive2 AC runs a Toyota NEOs M type controller: the Navitas TAC2 kit for the Drive2 or the Alltrax AC1 650A kit replaces it and keeps the motor.
Tip: an AC motor is sealed, with three thick cables of equal size and no brush band. Open the finder for a Yamaha Drive2, or read the Drive2 beeping codes.
Replacing a Curtis 1510, 1515, 1206HB, 1206MX or 1206AC
Have the old controller in your hand? Here is what replaces each common Curtis number. Type it into the I can read the label tab for the answer on your exact cart.
Curtis 1510 and 1510A replacement
Fitted to the Club Car Precedent and DS with the IQ system and to DC Tempo and Onward carts. Same part again: the Curtis 1510AS-5350, for the Precedent IQ. The kits that keep your motor are under the Precedent, or see AC conversion kits for the Precedent for more pull.
Curtis 1515 replacement
Fitted to the Club Car Precedent with the Excel system and to DC Tempo and Onward carts. Same part again: the Curtis 1515S-5350, for the Precedent Excel. It takes the same kits as the 1510.
Curtis 1206HB replacement
Fitted to the E-Z-GO TXT 48V. The Navitas TSX 3.0 kit for the TXT 48V takes its place and keeps your motor. More pull: AC conversion kits for the TXT.
Curtis 1206MX replacement
Fitted to the E-Z-GO TXT with PDS drive. Same part again: the Curtis 1206MX-4301 for a 36V cart. The kits for 36V and 48V are under the TXT.
Curtis 1206AC replacement
Fitted to the E-Z-GO RXV from 2012, with a 35 pin plug. The kits that keep your AC motor are under the RXV, or see AC controller kits for the RXV for more pull.
Carts the finder covers
Club Car, E-Z-GO and Yamaha by serial number, and ICON, Advanced EV, Star EV, Columbia Par Car, Denago and Kandi by make and model. If you would rather read a list than click through, every part is below, by cart.
Full parts list for every cart
A part appears only under the cart its own fitment data names, and it drops off this list when it is out of stock.
Club Car
E-Z-GO
| Your cart | Same part again | Upgrade, keep your motor | Controller and motor |
|---|---|---|---|
| TXT or MedalistTXT 48VFactory controller: Curtis 1206HB | Not stocked | ||
| TXT or MedalistTXT with PDS driveFactory controller: Curtis 1206MX | |||
| TXT or MedalistTXT with DCS driveFactory controller: Curtis 1206SX | Not stocked | ||
| TXT or MedalistSeries motor cart with the ITS throttleFactory controller: a series controller with the ITS throttle | Not stocked | ||
| TXT or MedalistSeries motor cart with a non-ITS throttleFactory controller: a series controller with a non-ITS throttle |
| ||
| TXT or MedalistTXT ELiTE with the factory lithium packFactory controller: Curtis 1206HBC | Not stocked | None listed | |
| RXVRXV 2008 to 2011Factory controller: Danaher 83A21102A | Not stocked | Already AC | |
| RXVRXV 2012 and up, lead-acidFactory controller: Curtis 1206AC | Not stocked | Already AC | |
| RXVRXV ELiTE with the factory lithium packFactory controller: Curtis 1206AC Fleet Lithium | Not stocked | Already AC | |
| S4 or L6S4 or L6, 72V lead-acidFactory controller: Curtis 1234SE | Not stocked | Already AC | |
| S4 or L6S4 or L6 ELiTE with the factory lithium packFactory controller: the factory ELiTE controller | We do not stock a replacement controller for an S4 or L6 ELiTE with the factory lithium pack. Match the part number on the controller label with an E-Z-GO dealer. | ||
| MPT, Workhorse or another utility cart48V utility cart with the ITS throttleFactory controller: Curtis 1268 ITS or 1264 |
|
| |
| MPT, Workhorse or another utility cartSeries motor cart with the ITS throttleFactory controller: a series controller with the ITS throttle | Not stocked | None listed | |
| MPT, Workhorse or another utility cartSeries motor cart with a non-ITS throttleFactory controller: a series controller with a non-ITS throttle |
| None listed | |
Yamaha
| Your cart | Same part again | Upgrade, keep your motor | Controller and motor |
|---|---|---|---|
| Drive (G29)Drive (G29), 48V electricFactory controller: Moric, 26 pin plug | Not stocked | ||
| Drive2Drive2 with a DC motorFactory controller: Moric, 26 pin plug | Not stocked | ||
| Drive2Drive2 ACFactory controller: Toyota NEOs M type | Not stocked | Already AC | |
| G19 or G22G19 or G22, 48V electricFactory controller: the stock controller with the 23 pin plug | Not stocked | None listed | |
| G14 or G16G14 or G16 electricFactory controller: the stock G14 or G16 controller | Not stocked | None listed |
ICON
| Your cart | Same part again | Upgrade, keep your motor | Controller and motor |
|---|---|---|---|
| ICON, any modelICON with the Toyota NEOs M type controllerFactory controller: Toyota NEOs M type | Not stocked |
| Already AC |
| ICON, any modelICON with another controllerFactory controller: a NEOs L type, red Curtis or LVTONG controller | We do not stock a replacement for the NEOs L type, red Curtis or LVTONG controllers. Match the part number on the label with an ICON dealer. | ||
Advanced EV
| Your cart | Same part again | Upgrade, keep your motor | Controller and motor |
|---|---|---|---|
| Advanced EV, any modelAdvanced EV with the Toyota NEOs M type controllerFactory controller: Toyota NEOs M type | Not stocked | Already AC | |
| Advanced EV, any modelAdvanced EV with another controllerFactory controller: a NEOs L type, red Curtis or LVTONG controller | We do not stock a replacement for the NEOs L type, red Curtis or LVTONG controllers. Match the part number on the label with an Advanced EV dealer. | ||
Star EV
| Your cart | Same part again | Upgrade, keep your motor | Controller and motor |
|---|---|---|---|
| Star EV, any modelStar EV Classic, 36VFactory controller: the factory Classic controller | Not stocked | None listed | |
| Star EV, any modelStar EV 48V with the Curtis 1268 controllerFactory controller: Curtis 1268 or 1520 |
| ||
| Star EV, any modelStar EV with a factory AC drivetrainFactory controller: the factory AC controller | We do not stock a replacement controller for a Star EV that came with an AC drivetrain. Match the part number on the label with a Star EV dealer. | ||
Columbia Par Car
| Your cart | Same part again | Upgrade, keep your motor | Controller and motor |
|---|---|---|---|
| Columbia Par Car, any modelColumbia Par Car 48V with the Sevcon MillipakFactory controller: Sevcon Millipak | Not stocked | ||
| Columbia Par Car, any model24V or 36V Columbia Par CarFactory controller: the factory controller | We do not stock a replacement controller for 24V or 36V Columbia carts. Match the part number on the label with a Columbia dealer. | ||
Denago
| Your cart | Same part again | Upgrade, keep your motor | Controller and motor |
|---|---|---|---|
| Denago EVDenago EV, 48VFactory controller: the factory Denago controller | Not stocked | Already AC |
Kandi
| Your cart | Same part again | Upgrade, keep your motor | Controller and motor |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kandi KruiserKandi Kruiser, 48VFactory controller: the factory Kandi controller | Not stocked | Already AC |
Royal EV
| Your cart | Same part again | Upgrade, keep your motor | Controller and motor |
|---|---|---|---|
| Royal EV, any modelRoyal EV with the factory controllerFactory controller: the factory controller | We do not stock a kit for a stock Royal EV. If the cart already runs a Navitas controller, go back and choose Already upgraded. | ||
Atlas EV
| Your cart | Same part again | Upgrade, keep your motor | Controller and motor |
|---|---|---|---|
| Atlas EV, any modelAtlas EV with the factory controllerFactory controller: the factory controller | We do not stock a kit for a stock Atlas EV. If the cart already runs a Navitas controller, go back and choose Already upgraded. | ||
Before you order
- Make sure the controller is the fault. A weak pack, a worn solenoid or a bad pedal switch stops a cart the same way. Our controller replacement guide has five meter tests that settle it.
- Fix what killed it. A solenoid with burned contacts or a loose cable lug will take out the new controller too.
- Match the pack voltage. A controller built for 36V is not for a 48V pack. The finder drops any part that does not cover the pack you chose.
- Pick the amp rating for the job. Most kits come in more than one rating. The controller amp calculator sizes it for your speed, load and hills.
- Have a part in mind already? Check it against your cart with the parts fitment checker.