Why does my golf cart keep moving when I let off the pedal?

This is caused by 'Welded Contacts' inside the main solenoid. The high electrical current has melted the copper contacts, fusing them together in the closed position. This means power is constantly flowing to the motor controller, even when the pedal is released.

How do I test for a welded solenoid?

Disconnect the main battery cables and remove the wires from the solenoid's large posts. Use a multimeter set to Continuity mode. Touch the probes to the two large posts. If the meter beeps or reads 0 Ohms (Continuity) while the solenoid is disconnected, the contacts are welded shut.

Can I fix a welded solenoid?

No. Once the contacts have welded, the copper surface is destroyed and pitted. Even if you manage to break them apart by tapping on the solenoid, the rough surface will create more heat and weld again almost immediately. You must replace the solenoid.

Lab_Diagnostics // Solenoid_Systems

Cart Won’t Stop? Welded Contacts

Does your golf cart keep driving after you release the pedal? Your solenoid contacts have welded shut. This is a critical safety failure.

You pull into the garage, let off the pedal, and… the cart keeps creeping forward. This is the “Runaway Cart.” It is the exact opposite of the Click of Death—your solenoid has melted shut.

01 // Theory: How Copper Welds

Your solenoid handles massive current (300-500 Amps). Every time you press the pedal, an arc forms. If amperage is too high (due to low voltage or mods), that arc becomes a plasma torch.

The Melt: Heat melts the copper surface.
The Stick: When they touch, molten copper fuses together.
The Result: The return spring is too weak to break the weld. The switch is permanently ON.

02 // The Continuity Test

WARNING: Jack up rear wheels. If the solenoid is welded, the wheels will spin full speed instantly upon reconnection.

Step 1: Isolate the Solenoid

Turn Key OFF. Switch Tow/Run to TOW. Disconnect Main Positive. Remove the heavy cables from the large solenoid posts.

Why Remove Cables? You cannot test continuity accurately while it is connected to the controller loop.

Step 2: The Ohm Test

Set Multimeter to Continuity (Beep Mode). Touch probes to the two Large Posts.

Reading	Sound	Diagnosis
OL (Open Loop)	Silent	Safe (Open)
0.00 Ohms	Continuous Beep	WELDED (Bad)

03 // The “Percussive” Check

Take the handle of a screwdriver and give the solenoid body a sharp TAP.

Listen: Did you hear a Clunk? That was the spring finally breaking the weld. Do NOT think you fixed it. The contacts are pitted and rough. They will weld again tomorrow.

04 // Why Did It Weld?

Solenoids don’t just die; they are murdered by heat.

Low Voltage: Driving with dead batteries spikes amperage.
Regen Braking: Aggressive braking sends high current backwards.
The “Slow” Switch: Old springs separate contacts too slowly, creating long arcs.

Upgrade Required

If you have a lifted cart or 4-seater, a stock 200A solenoid is dangerous. You MUST upgrade to a 400A Continuous / 1000A Peak Heavy Duty Solenoid (Albright/MJZ) to prevent runway fires.

Summary Checklist

Immediate Stop: Turn Key OFF or stomp Parking Brake.
Disconnect: Do not leave a welded cart plugged in.
Test Disconnected: Remove cables to prove the weld is internal.
Never File Contacts: Filing removes silver plating. Buy a new unit.

Verified Fix: Replace & Upgrade

Continuity test confirmed welded contacts. Replace with a Heavy Duty 400A Solenoid to handle high-amperage switching safely.

Proceed with Replacement

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